Recharging a flat battery using the Ctek mxs 5.0

Technical Advice, Faults and How-To Information.
MikeF
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Post by MikeF »

Thanks guys for both of those responses.
Regards

powerhouse
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Post by powerhouse »

RPSN wrote: Thu Apr 09, 2020 1:02 pm
MikeF wrote: Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:31 pm Here is an update on my battery saga.
The Ctek could not recharge the battery from dead. Stopped after the second stage and the error light came on. Not a criticism of Ctek, their manual says it is not a charger and the mxs 5.0 should not be used for dead batteries.
Could not jump start the car from the wife’s Audi so I am taking SCM’s advice and ordering a Tacklife jump starter.
The battery is only one year old (fitted by Inchcape) so it should not be in this state. Can’t drive anywhere but this is still really annoying.
PS the Ctek worked really well on wife’s Audi TT.

Here’s some info that I’ve kept on F-Type battery charging.........

The CTEK battery charger will not initially work on a fully discharged battery.

If you cannot access the battery inside the car boot then you can connect a normal (traditional) 12 volt trickle battery charger to the connection points under the car bonnet. This will put some charge into the battery which will be enough for the CTEK to sense it. You should then remove the normal charger and connect the CTEK and it will do what its designed to do.

Once there is enough juice in the battery for the car boot to be opened you should use the CTEK to charge the battery from there.

This photo shows the correct CTEK wiring connections in the car boot.
Mine is 2018 4 pot and the points for connecting the charger as second picture below , different than the one that you refer to, think mines the same on the newer r models to, question is it is still connect to the yellow wire on the bus bar

batery.jpg

batery1.jpg

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RPSN
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Post by RPSN »

Yep, the CTEK positive wire can still be connected to the yellow wire on the bus bar side.
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Philskill
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Post by Philskill »

My fusebox is like yours, this is how I installed mine, but I moved the Negative to the end of the battery earth point in the bottom of your picture.

It keeps the fuse within the fusebox, so no exposed unfused wiring

DSC03831.JPG.jpg

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Nick
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Post by Nick »

Anyone been brave enough to drill a hole in the body for the ctek plug, think that’s the Jaguar way?
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scm
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Post by scm »

You don't drill the body, just the flexible panel at the side of the boot!
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powerhouse
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Post by powerhouse »

Philskill wrote: Sat Apr 11, 2020 8:39 am My fusebox is like yours, this is how I installed mine, but I moved the Negative to the end of the battery earth point in the bottom of your picture.

It keeps the fuse within the fusebox, so no exposed unfused wiring

DSC03831.JPG.jpg
Thanks , so as you said yours is like mine, so I can attach the red live wire anywhere on the bus bar it doesn’t have to opposite any color wire
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scm
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Post by scm »

powerhouse wrote: Sat Apr 11, 2020 10:54 am
Philskill wrote: Sat Apr 11, 2020 8:39 am My fusebox is like yours, this is how I installed mine, but I moved the Negative to the end of the battery earth point in the bottom of your picture.

It keeps the fuse within the fusebox, so no exposed unfused wiring

DSC03831.JPG.jpg
Thanks , so as you said yours is like mine, so I can attach the red live wire anywhere on the bus bar it doesn’t have to opposite any color wire
It probably depends on the size of your connector, the ones opposite the coloured wires look to be smaller diameter than the one shown above.
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Philskill
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Post by Philskill »

Yes use either the large or the small whichever suits your cable connectors best, as you'll see mine is doubled back and could easily have connected to the next smaller bolt along had the eyelet been smaller. Any connection point on the Bus bar is fine.
Last edited by Philskill on Sat Apr 11, 2020 9:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Philskill
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Post by Philskill »

Nick wrote: Sat Apr 11, 2020 10:08 am Anyone been brave enough to drill a hole in the body for the ctek plug, think that’s the Jaguar way?
Not a great picture, but I cut a hole in my panel with a sharp Stanley, I draw the hole requirements (measure the socket which is rectangular) on some masking tape and then used that as a template to push the Stanley knife carefully through the panel working back from each corner.

DSC03832.JPG.jpg

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