Sorry if this is me missing something, but isn’t it a 2016 F-Type?mickjaguar wrote: ↑Sat Oct 26, 2024 10:14 amTo help any confusion for the purchaser. This car is s a 2015 V6 340 which was only available in RWD with a fixed rear differential. No transfer boxes etc.scm wrote: ↑Sat Oct 26, 2024 9:19 amEvery 3 years according to my service schedule.YorkshireSam wrote: ↑Fri Oct 25, 2024 7:10 pmIf it's AWD, the transfer box fluid should have been done by now too I think. Someone will no doubt correct me if I'm wrong.
Just reserved a 2016 F-Type…
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- Location: Chichester
Sorry I may be being thick here but what does this mean please? Is this about power and RWD for drivers used to less, or is there actually some technical limitations at play?
It's a sleepy Sunday morning and I have only had one coffee so far, so please excuse what is likely a stupid question!!!!!!
V6.
It means that using full throttle for more than a couple of seconds gets you to licence losing speeds. In most cars that happens (relatively) glacially!
MY18 F-Type V8 R AWD in Glacier White
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
Regardless of speed limits it also means that using full throttle for more than a couple of seconds gets you to crash into the next hedge speeds and it doesn't matter if you have RWD or AWD.scm wrote: ↑Sun Oct 27, 2024 3:56 pmIt means that using full throttle for more than a couple of seconds gets you to licence losing speeds. In most cars that happens (relatively) glacially!
MY18 V6S R-Dynamic coupé RWD with about every toy and option you could get
BRG, design black pack, 20" carbon blades, pano, full Sienna tan interior with performance seats...
BRG, design black pack, 20" carbon blades, pano, full Sienna tan interior with performance seats...
I see! The spoiler popping up is a handy early warning system, a reminder that you're going just a leeeetle bit too fast, that stays up and shames you until you slow it right down.MajorTom wrote: ↑Sun Oct 27, 2024 5:23 pmRegardless of speed limits it also means that using full throttle for more than a couple of seconds gets you to crash into the next hedge speeds and it doesn't matter if you have RWD or AWD.
I guess it depends which type of Fiesta ogscu is coming from and what kind of jump in the power-weight ratio they're getting.
I'd say the V6 level of power is very manageable. It's quite an easy car to drive sedately, if you want to. The standard car doesn't have 'mental' power levels.
The RWD thing - I've had RWD and FWD. People used to always tell me to worry about RWD. My first RWD car was a TVR and I remember how easy it was to lose the tail on that. The F really doesn't feel like that at all. Whether that's electronics keeping me safe I don't know.
Treat it with respect and you should be fine.
V6.
Before my F-Type I had a 5.0 XKR and that was very tail happy. On the same route the F-Type is very planted and feels much more secure, although I don't know how much of that is down to the pull from the front as I can't tell when it's being applied - it feels very RWD-ish when powering out of bends.
MY18 F-Type V8 R AWD in Glacier White
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
With all the nannies on they're fortunately all very secure when it comes to traction. The main difference I noticed between RWD and AWD in my previous Jags was in slippery conditions where the AWD was just much more effortless.
The tyres of course make a big difference too, especially on a RWD car. The original P Zeros gave me a few brown pants moments even in the dry which never happens with the Michelins I have now.
Even when the P Zeros let the back end go the nannies stepped in really well and overall I think these cars are rather fool proof if you keep everything on. Except of course if you attack a sharp B road corner at spoiler up speeds where no nannies will help you around the bend.
The tyres of course make a big difference too, especially on a RWD car. The original P Zeros gave me a few brown pants moments even in the dry which never happens with the Michelins I have now.
Even when the P Zeros let the back end go the nannies stepped in really well and overall I think these cars are rather fool proof if you keep everything on. Except of course if you attack a sharp B road corner at spoiler up speeds where no nannies will help you around the bend.
MY18 V6S R-Dynamic coupé RWD with about every toy and option you could get
BRG, design black pack, 20" carbon blades, pano, full Sienna tan interior with performance seats...
BRG, design black pack, 20" carbon blades, pano, full Sienna tan interior with performance seats...
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- Posts: 114
- Joined: Tue May 03, 2022 8:41 am
- Location: South Cheshire
I’ve got a 2015 V6S. Much higher mileage, but a good indication of things you may want to check that I’ve come across with mine.
1. Water ingress in the boot area. Definitely remove all the boot floor lining and look (no tools required).
2. Door illuminated tread plates loose (the double sided tape had failed eventually. Easy enough to do yourself but time consuming removing all the old glue residue).
3. As others have said, check the rear box exhaust valves. They fail with regular timing. The previous owner had the box changed for this in 2019, mine failed again in 2023. I’ve had a ModStock conversion done now which are supposedly much better quality (they look it).
4. Underside for corrosion. The various cross braces and the subframes can suffer from significant corrosion. Even on cars that aren’t that old. I had mine addressed early this year - braces all removed and sent away for shot blasting and powder coating, subframes wire brushed and then treated with Dinitrol.
5. Obvious things like tyre wear, not just tread depth but uneven wear. If it’s got Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tyres fitted that’s a bonus. If it hasn’t, you’ll want some.
6. Sticky buttons - especially the start button. It’s the material they are made from and is quite common. You can clean them but it comes back, and with the start button especially, the finish wears away.
7. Bonnet/ wings/ front bumper alignment and panel gaps. Quite often they aren’t right, it’s a fiddly job to correct.
8. Stone chips. The front end and bonnet can get very stone chipped. Also the rear edge of the sill (where it has a PPF applied. I’ve also noticed the rear lower edges of the wheel arches are prone to being ‘blasted’ by road debris thrown up off the tyres.
9. Windscreen. If it’s heated you want to make sure it clears - the elements fail and you can end up with partial clearance only. Also check for chips, mine picked up a few and I eventually sourced a new, genuine Jag screen which I bought for £400 and had fitted locally.
10. Seats, especially the drivers seat. The bolster and the base/ back can get easily damaged by the rivets fitted to jeans. Mine had several drag marks and scratches when I got it, which a mate who does that thing for a living repaired for me. I’ve got a few more only 18 months after the repair.
11. The powered air outlets in the dash. The drive mechanism can fail, but it’s a fairly easy DIY fix. Just make sure it functions fully - it probably will as it will be one of the salesman’s selling points!
That’s it in my experience over and above the usual service and mechanical stuff that you would want to check on any car such as brakes for wear, suspension for leaks/ cracked springs, no warning lights etc.
1. Water ingress in the boot area. Definitely remove all the boot floor lining and look (no tools required).
2. Door illuminated tread plates loose (the double sided tape had failed eventually. Easy enough to do yourself but time consuming removing all the old glue residue).
3. As others have said, check the rear box exhaust valves. They fail with regular timing. The previous owner had the box changed for this in 2019, mine failed again in 2023. I’ve had a ModStock conversion done now which are supposedly much better quality (they look it).
4. Underside for corrosion. The various cross braces and the subframes can suffer from significant corrosion. Even on cars that aren’t that old. I had mine addressed early this year - braces all removed and sent away for shot blasting and powder coating, subframes wire brushed and then treated with Dinitrol.
5. Obvious things like tyre wear, not just tread depth but uneven wear. If it’s got Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tyres fitted that’s a bonus. If it hasn’t, you’ll want some.
6. Sticky buttons - especially the start button. It’s the material they are made from and is quite common. You can clean them but it comes back, and with the start button especially, the finish wears away.
7. Bonnet/ wings/ front bumper alignment and panel gaps. Quite often they aren’t right, it’s a fiddly job to correct.
8. Stone chips. The front end and bonnet can get very stone chipped. Also the rear edge of the sill (where it has a PPF applied. I’ve also noticed the rear lower edges of the wheel arches are prone to being ‘blasted’ by road debris thrown up off the tyres.
9. Windscreen. If it’s heated you want to make sure it clears - the elements fail and you can end up with partial clearance only. Also check for chips, mine picked up a few and I eventually sourced a new, genuine Jag screen which I bought for £400 and had fitted locally.
10. Seats, especially the drivers seat. The bolster and the base/ back can get easily damaged by the rivets fitted to jeans. Mine had several drag marks and scratches when I got it, which a mate who does that thing for a living repaired for me. I’ve got a few more only 18 months after the repair.
11. The powered air outlets in the dash. The drive mechanism can fail, but it’s a fairly easy DIY fix. Just make sure it functions fully - it probably will as it will be one of the salesman’s selling points!
That’s it in my experience over and above the usual service and mechanical stuff that you would want to check on any car such as brakes for wear, suspension for leaks/ cracked springs, no warning lights etc.
2015 F Type V6S coupe in French Racing Blue
Exterior style pack
Panoramic roof
Upgraded brakes
19” Centrifuge wheels
Sports seats
Flat bottomed, heated steering wheel
Independent climate control
Exterior style pack
Panoramic roof
Upgraded brakes
19” Centrifuge wheels
Sports seats
Flat bottomed, heated steering wheel
Independent climate control
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- Posts: 114
- Joined: Tue May 03, 2022 8:41 am
- Location: South Cheshire
Broken exhaust valve linkages…and the ModStock replacement.
2015 F Type V6S coupe in French Racing Blue
Exterior style pack
Panoramic roof
Upgraded brakes
19” Centrifuge wheels
Sports seats
Flat bottomed, heated steering wheel
Independent climate control
Exterior style pack
Panoramic roof
Upgraded brakes
19” Centrifuge wheels
Sports seats
Flat bottomed, heated steering wheel
Independent climate control
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